Wolfburn Distillery in Thurso, Caithness, began production in January 2013, taking its name and water source from the original Wolfburn distillery that operated on the same spot between 1821 and around 1860. At its revival it became the most northerly mainland distillery in Scotland, a title it still holds — lying some miles north of Pulteney in Wick.
The distillery is a small, independent concern, building a reputation steadily on consistent, cask-driven releases rather than heavy marketing. Aurora is part of the core range, matured primarily in first-fill ex-sherry Oloroso casks alongside ex-bourbon quarter casks. It is bottled at 46% ABV, non-chill-filtered and without added colour, and carries no age statement.
The nose is unmistakably sherried without being overwhelming: raisin, toffee, orange peel, a light nuttiness and a faint whiff of salt air, the latter a quiet reminder of the distillery's position at the edge of the Pentland Firth. The palate follows through on the promise, offering honeyed malt, sultana, dried apricot, walnut and a gentle spice from the oak.
It is a well-constructed sherried Highland malt from a very young distillery — well, young in its current incarnation — and shows the benefit of patient cask selection over any attempt to rush character from the spirit. The finish is medium-long, warming and nutty, and it sits comfortably beside older, more famous names at a very fair price.
