When United Distillers launched the Flora & Fauna series in 1991 they did a small but significant service to the working distilleries of Scotland, giving the public a look at malts that would otherwise have vanished entirely into blends. The series took its name from the botanical and zoological illustrations on the labels, each keyed to the distillery's locality, and at its height covered some two dozen malts. Strathmill 12 has been part of the range from the outset, and remains the most reliable way to meet the distillery on its own terms.
Strathmill was founded in 1891 in Keith, converted from an earlier meal mill, and its spirit stills are fitted with purifiers — an unusual arrangement for the region that lends the new make a noticeably clean, light character. The purifiers were added in 1968 and remain one of the distillery's distinguishing features. The resulting malt goes chiefly to J&B, where its lightness is prized by the blenders.
On the nose one finds vanilla, pear drops and a cereal note, with a light floral suggestion drifting above. The palate is soft and malty, with green apple, honey, almond and a discreet flicker of white pepper. The finish is medium in length, dry and clean, closing on a trace of nutmeg.
This is textbook light Speyside: no drama, no pretension, and none of the wood-forward strategies that have become so fashionable among re-launches. At 43% it drinks with composure, and while it will never set the auction rooms alight, the Flora & Fauna 12 is the honest article and deserves its long tenure. An aperitif malt, and one of the best of its kind — a quiet pleasure for those who have tired of sherry bombs and peat monsters.
