Glendullan distillery has operated on the banks of the River Fiddich near Dufftown since 1897, though the plant now in use dates from 1972 — the original having been mothballed in 1985 and later dismantled. It is one of the more anonymous Diageo Speysiders, its spirit historically destined for the company's vast blending operation rather than for the single-malt shelves.
The Singleton range, launched in 2006, gave Glendullan a public voice for the first time, and North America was chosen as its market. The 18 year old stands as the oldest core expression of that line-up, a Speyside malt aged long enough to take on real sherry-cask character without losing the gentle orchard-fruit profile of the house style.
The marriage of American and European oak is more evident at this age. Raisin and sultana sit alongside toffee, roasted nut and a dusting of winter spice, while the oak provides structure rather than abrasion. It is a considered, well-made dram — not an adventurous one, but a dignified account of what eighteen years of patient Speyside maturation can do to a soft-shouldered spirit.
As with its stablemates, the bottling strength of 40% ABV attracts criticism from those who want more presence in the glass. That quibble aside, this is a handsome older Speysider, ideal for after-dinner sipping and a rewarding step up for the drinker who has grown familiar with the 12 and 15.
