When Diageo relaunched Mortlach as a single malt in 2014, Rare Old served as the NAS foundation alongside the Special Strength, 18 and 25 year olds. The range was controversial — the half-litre bottles at premium prices drew criticism — and in 2018 it was replaced by the current 12/16/20 lineup. That makes Rare Old a curio today, though bottles still appear.
Mortlach's reputation rests on its unusual distillation system, designed in the 1890s by manager Alexander Cowie, which runs spirit through its six stills a partial 2.81 times. The result is a spirit heavier and meatier than typical Speyside fare, well suited to sherry cask maturation.
Rare Old shows this clearly. The nose leans sherried with dried fruit and malt loaf, but there is always that gunpowder whiff lurking beneath. The palate is stewed plum, leather and cocoa over beef bouillon. It finishes drying, with tobacco and burnt orange peel. Not subtle, but honest to the distillery's character.
