Inchgower distillery sits near Buckie on the Moray Firth coast, technically within the Speyside region but producing a whisky that tastes nothing like the light, fruity malts the region is known for. Built in 1871, it was purchased by the town of Buckie and later sold to Bell's, whose blending operation it has served ever since. The Flora & Fauna 14 Year Old is the sole official single malt bottling, and it presents a character that might charitably be described as distinctive.
The coastal influence is immediate and dominant — salt, brine, a wet maritime quality that overrides the expected Speyside fruitiness. Add to this a sulphurous note from the distillery's copper regime, and you have a malt that polarises opinion even among experienced whisky drinkers. Some find it fascinating — a coastal curiosity that challenges Speyside assumptions. Others find it challenging in less flattering ways.
Inchgower 14 is an honest bottling of a difficult distillery. It does not attempt to hide or disguise its unusual character, and for that transparency it deserves respect. The whisky is well-made — the sulphur is a feature of the distillation, not a flaw — and the coastal character gives it a genuine distinctiveness. Whether that distinctiveness translates into pleasure is a matter of personal taste. For the adventurous, Inchgower is a worthwhile exploration of Speyside's outer boundaries. For most, it will remain a curiosity sampled once and not revisited.
