Madeira is the most idiosyncratic of the fortified wines from which Scotch whisky borrows its finishing casks. Produced on the Portuguese Atlantic island of the same name, it undergoes deliberate heating and oxidation during its maturation, a process that leaves its casks imbued with distinctly nutty, raisined and caramelised notes quite unlike those of sherry or Port. Glen Moray's Madeira Cask Finish, the least commonly encountered member of its Classic range, puts this character to work on a Speysider.
As with its stablemates, the base spirit is the distillery's bourbon-matured Classic, transferred to ex-Madeira casks for a secondary period before bottling at 40 per cent. The nose is noticeably richer than one might expect at this price: raisin and honeycomb dominate, with orange marmalade and a whisper of walnut sitting behind. The palate carries dried apricot, caramelised sugar and candied peel, the Madeira's oxidative character lending a depth that belies the strength. A soft oaky warmth ties the whole together.
The finish is medium in length, honeyed and nutty, with a light brown-sugar sweetness trailing off. Of the four wine-cask finishes Glen Moray produces, this is perhaps the most distinctive and, to my mind, the most successful. It demonstrates that Madeira wood need not be reserved for premium bottlings to make its influence felt, and it offers drinkers an affordable route into a style of finishing they may otherwise encounter only at considerably higher prices.
