A thirty-year-old Glen Grant is not, on paper, an obvious proposition. The house style is delicate, and many assume delicate whiskies cannot stand three decades in wood. In practice, the tall stills and purifiers that produce that delicacy also produce a spirit remarkably patient with oak, and the thirty reaches its age without tipping into tannic exhaustion.
Bottled at the minimum strength of 40%, it has the pale amber colour that refill bourbon casks give, not the conker brown of sherry butts. The nose is classic old Speyside: aged leather, beeswax, dried mango, vanilla and a note of sandalwood that arrives only in whiskies left very long in quiet warehouses. The palate is mellow rather than big — honey, candied ginger, soft oak, poached pear and toasted nuts — and the finish is long and drying, with waxy fruit holding to the end.
Glen Grant's warehouses at Rothes are dunnage-built, earth-floored and cool, which slows maturation and preserves spirit character. A thirty-year-old from a faster-aging cellar would likely taste over-oaked. Here the age reads as depth rather than weight.
This is a whisky that rewards a quiet evening and an empty glass. It is not one to drown in ice or chase with mixers. Drink it as Major Grant presumably did in his Dram Hut: neat, at room temperature, and with time to spare.