Fettercairn, founded in 1824 at the foot of the Cairngorms, is one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland and long one of its most eccentric. Its stills are fitted with copper cooling rings around the necks, onto which cold water is trickled during distillation. This unusual setup increases reflux and condensation, stripping heavier compounds from the spirit and yielding a distillate with a distinctive tropical-fruit lift. For decades this character was largely hidden inside blends such as Whyte & Mackay, but since 2018 owner Whyte & Mackay has relaunched Fettercairn as a single malt brand in its own right.
The 16 Year Old sits above the 12 in the reshaped core range and represents the first point at which the distillery's quirks begin to assert themselves properly. It is matured in American oak ex-bourbon barrels and then finished in a combination of Oloroso and Palo Cortado sherry casks — the latter an unusual choice, contributing a dry, nutty dimension rather than the sweeter weight of a straight Oloroso.
The result is a whisky with noticeably more depth than the entry-level 12. The tropical fruit that is Fettercairn's calling card is more pronounced here, sitting alongside cocoa, toasted nuts and a drying oak grip. Bottled at 46.4% and without chill filtration, it holds up well to a drop of water. Ninety-five pounds is not inexpensive for a Highland 16, but after years in the wilderness Fettercairn is plainly putting the effort in, and the 16 is the expression where that effort begins to show its dividends most clearly.
