First Impressions
Craigellachie 23 — the last of the 'meaty' Speysiders. Built in 1891 by Peter Mackie and Alexander Edward at the confluence of the Rivers Spey and Fiddich. For decades it supplied blending malt — notably for Dewar's — before Bacardi launched the single malt range in 2014.
The Worm Tubs
Craigellachie owes its distinctive sulphury, robust character to traditional worm tub condensers — coiled copper pipes cooled in water tubs rather than modern shell-and-tube condensers. This reduces copper contact, allowing heavier, meatier compounds to survive into the spirit. It divides opinion but has earned a cult following. Non-chill filtered at 46%.
Tasting
Perfumed honeysuckle nose with citrus and lanolin. Waxy, woolly palate with lemongrass, chamomile tea, marzipan, and a subtle sulphury depth. The finish is extraordinarily long with sweet spices. Best in Show at the 2015 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
The Verdict
Craigellachie 23 earns a 9 — a unique Speyside malt that stands apart from the crowd. At £225, it's premium but justified by 23 years of maturation and that distinctive meaty character no other distillery replicates. If you want to understand why worm tubs matter, start here.
