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Craigellachie 23: Worm-Tub Sulphury Speyside in Old-School Pre-1980s Style

Craigellachie 23: Worm-Tub Sulphury Speyside in Old-School Pre-1980s Style

9.3 /10
EDITOR
Distillery: Craigellachie
Type: Scotch
Age: 23 Years
ABV: 46% ABV
Price: £260

Tasting Notes

Nose

Struck match, pineapple, dried mango, beeswax, leather, smoked bacon and tropical fruit syrup.

Palate

Oily and muscular with grilled pineapple, mango chutney, charred meat, brass polish, honey and a sulphury savoury edge.

Finish

Very long, waxy and meaty with lingering tropical fruit, leather and faint smoke.

First Impressions

Craigellachie 23 is one of the most distinctive single malts in Speyside, and unapologetically so. Bottled at 46% with no chill-filtration, it carries the full weight of the distillery's old-fashioned production style — including the sulphury, meaty character that most modern distilleries have engineered out of their spirit.

Distillery & Heritage

Built in 1891 and still using worm-tub condensers and oil-fired stills, Craigellachie has resisted modernisation in ways its neighbours have not. The result is a heavier, sulphurier new make that requires long maturation to find its balance. Bacardi launched the official single malt range in 2014 with the slogan 'the last great malts of Speyside,' and the 23 Year Old quickly became a critical darling.

Tasting Notes in Detail

The nose is wonderfully strange — struck match and brass polish wrap around dried mango, pineapple and beeswax. The palate is oily and full, mixing tropical fruit syrup with grilled meat, leather and honey. The finish is long, waxy and savoury, an intoxicating mix of fruit and funk that no other distillery can replicate.

Verdict

A connoisseur's malt for drinkers seeking the old, dirty, characterful Speyside style of the pre-1980s. Unforgettable, divisive and brilliant.

Where to Buy

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Joe Whitfield
Joe Whitfield
Editor-in-Chief

Joe has spent over fifteen years immersed in the whiskey industry, beginning his career at a Speyside distillery before moving into drinks journalism. As Editor-in-Chief at Whiskeyful.com, he oversees...

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