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Caol Ila 17 Year Old Unpeated

Caol Ila 17 Year Old Unpeated

8.2 /10
EDITOR
Distillery: Caol Ila
Type: Scotch
Age: 17
ABV: 55.9%
Price: £140

Tasting Notes

Nose

Beeswax, lemon curd, fresh hay and white pepper. Vanilla and a faint waxed-paper note suggest refill American oak.

Palate

Rich and waxy with green apple, barley sugar, melon and grapefruit pith. The cask-strength delivery is mouth-coating rather than hot.

Finish

Medium-long, malty and clean, with lemon oil and a distant nutty warmth.

For a few weeks each year Caol Ila runs its mash and stills with unpeated malt, a quirk inherited from the days when SMD needed clean Highland-style fillings for grain-heavy blends. The resulting spirit was traditionally never seen as single malt at all — until Diageo's Special Releases programme began to bottle it in the mid-2000s, first as a 2006 release and then in a series of expressions of varying age.

The 17-year-old appeared in the 2015 Special Releases at 55.9% ABV, drawn from refill American oak. It is, in effect, a glimpse of Caol Ila's underlying distillate character: tall stills, lantern-glass shape, long fermentation. Without the phenols to dominate, what surfaces is a waxy, fruit-driven malt that has more in common with Clynelish than with its Kildalton neighbours.

That waxiness is the surprise. It is not the polished beeswax of Brora or the candle-grease of old Clynelish, but a softer cousin — orchard fruit bound up in oily texture, with the seventeen years in cask adding a dusting of vanilla and pepper rather than heavy oak. There is no smoke to mask anything, so the cuts and cask quality have to do the work, and they do.

Unpeated Caol Ila divides opinion: purists feel it betrays the point of Islay, while others enjoy seeing the distillery exposed. As a study in what peat usually hides, it is genuinely instructive. The 17-year-old age statement matters too, since the longer refill maturation has rounded off any roughness without burying the spirit in wood, and the cask-strength bottling keeps the texture where it needs to be. Treat it as an education piece rather than a conventional Islay dram and it rewards serious attention.

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Joe Whitfield
Joe Whitfield
Editor-in-Chief

Joe has spent over fifteen years immersed in the whiskey industry, beginning his career at a Speyside distillery before moving into drinks journalism. As Editor-in-Chief at Whiskeyful.com, he oversees...

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