Blair Athol, at the edge of Pitlochry, is one of Scotland's older distilleries, founded in 1798 and long a component of the Bell's blend. Official single malt bottlings remain comparatively scarce, which is part of what makes a Diageo Special Release from this address worth paying attention to.
The 23 Year Old Special Release is drawn at cask strength, typically in the high 50s by volume, and represents a rare chance to taste older Blair Athol in unadorned form. The nose is classically waxy: beeswax and dried apricot lead, with orange marmalade, old leather and a pinch of nutmeg following.
The palate is thick and oily, the kind of texture one associates with long-aged Highland malts that still have some fat in them. Honeyed malt sits at the centre, framed by dried fruit, toasted nut and warming spice, with the oak a steady presence rather than a dominating one. Water releases a touch more of the marmalade note and softens the spice.
The finish runs long and drying, with cocoa, cereal and bitter orange peel seeing it out. Released in limited numbers, it is a whisky bought as much for its rarity as its pleasures, but the pleasures are genuine.
