Benrinnes distillery sits on the slopes of the mountain that shares its name, above the village of Aberlour in Speyside. Built in 1826 and rebuilt after a flood in 1829, it has spent most of its existence as one of Diageo's quieter workhorses, its malt feeding J&B and other blends. What makes Benrinnes distinctive is its former use of partial triple distillation — a system using three pairs of stills in which some of the spirit was distilled three times — which produced a heavier, more complex spirit than the standard double distillation used by most Scottish distilleries.
The Flora & Fauna 15 Year Old captures this heavier character handsomely. Fifteen years in mostly refill casks have allowed the spirit's natural meatiness and waxiness to develop without overwhelming oak influence. The result is a whisky of genuine complexity — savoury and sweet in equal measure, with a depth that rewards repeated nosing and tasting. It sits comfortably alongside Mortlach as one of Speyside's meatiest malts.
Benrinnes switched to conventional double distillation in 2007, meaning the Flora & Fauna bottling — still available from older stock — represents a style of whisky that is slowly disappearing. This gives the 15 Year Old an added poignancy and, arguably, collectability. For drinkers who appreciate weight and complexity over lightness and fruit, Benrinnes is one of the great undiscovered Speyside distilleries. The Flora & Fauna bottling remains the most accessible way to experience its remarkable character.
