Aberlour stands at the foot of Ben Rinnes on the Lour Burn, where James Fleming rebuilt the distillery in 1879 after fire destroyed the original buildings. Fleming's name still appears on the labels, and his preference for Spanish oak still defines the house style. The A'bunadh series, launched almost a century later in 1997, distils that preference to its essence: first-fill Oloroso sherry butts, cask strength, no chill-filtration, no water.
Batch 60 arrives at a slightly higher strength than its predecessors — 60.8% — and the additional spirit shows in the nose. There is sticky date pudding, raisin and a darker, more confectionery edge of hazelnut praline. A faint curl of pipe tobacco hovers behind, the kind of note that European oak gives up when it has been properly seasoned with sherry for several years before filling.
On the palate the whisky is full and almost chewy. Fig jam and treacle toffee dominate the front of the tongue; baked apple and clove follow, then a generous wash of warming spice that is more nutmeg than pepper. Water is welcome here — a few drops open up a vein of orange marmalade — but the dram is perfectly drinkable neat for those who can take the strength.
The finish is long and shifts from sweet to drying, leaving old oak, dark molasses and a final whisper of bitter chocolate. Batch-to-batch variation is the whole point of the series, and Batch 60 is an honest, generous example of what Aberlour does best.
