Oban distillery was founded in 1794 by the Stevenson brothers, and the town of Oban itself grew up around it rather than the other way around. With only two stills — among the smallest in Scotland — its output has always been modest, which is why bottlings beyond the standard 14 year old are something of an event.
This 21 year old appeared as part of Diageo's annual Special Releases, the series that since 2001 has drawn rare casks from across the company's distilleries for limited bottling at natural strength. At 57.9% and non-chill-filtered, it is a markedly different proposition from the proprietary 14.
The nose carries Oban's familiar coastal signature — sea salt, orange peel, beeswax — but with the depth that two decades in cask brings: dried apricot, malt loaf and a thread of faint smoke that speaks of the West Highland setting. Water opens it considerably. The palate is honeyed and concentrated, with candied citrus, brine and a warming spice running through the middle. The finish is long, gently smoked and salted, drifting away through honey and oak.
Special Releases tend to divide opinion on price, and Oban at this age and strength is no bargain. But as a chance to taste the West Highland character at full proof and properly aged, it is a worthwhile rarity for those who already know and like the standard expression. Diageo has bottled Oban only sparingly at this kind of age, and the limited capacity of the distillery's two stills means mature stocks will always be in short supply.
