Glentauchers was built in 1897 by James Buchanan and W. P. Lowrie near Mulben, not far from Keith, and its spirit has been a cornerstone of Buchanan's Black & White blend ever since. Buchanan was among the shrewdest of the blending merchants of the late Victorian era, and in laying down Glentauchers he secured for himself a steady supply of the clean, malty Speyside spirit that suited his style of blending. Now in the hands of Chivas Brothers, the distillery remains resolutely a blender's malt — official single malt bottlings are all but non-existent, and one must go to the independents to meet it.
Single Malts of Scotland, the Elixir Distillers label long associated with Sukhinder Singh's efforts on behalf of the quieter distilleries of Scotland, has done Glentauchers as good a service as anyone. This 18 year old, bottled at 46% and without chill-filtration, is typical of the house: unembellished, well-chosen casks allowed to speak for themselves, with no great emphasis on wood gymnastics.
The nose is bright and orchard-fruited, with barley sugar, a light honey and an almond suggestion at the edges. There is an elegance to it that rewards patient sniffing. The palate is medium-bodied and malty, bringing apple, pear, vanilla and a clean oak note, with no great sherry or peat to distract from the distillery character. The finish is of fair length, dry, with cereal and a faint ginger warmth.
This is Glentauchers as one hopes to find it — unadorned and at a sensible strength. Admirers of light Speyside distillation in the old style will want to know about it, and those who have grown weary of the relentless sherry-cask arms race will find here a reminder of what a refill hogshead can do given time. An honest bottling of an honest malt, and the best sort of independent work.
