Signature is the top of the Dewar's regular range, a twenty-five year old blend finished in ex-sherry casks from Royal Brackla — the Highland distillery which, having received its royal warrant from William IV in 1833, has the distinction of being the only Scotch malt permitted to style itself "The King's Own." Its inclusion here is no accident: Brackla has long been one of the five malts that form the Dewar's spine, and its richer, fruitier character suits the finishing role admirably.
The nose is deep and composed — honey, by now almost crystallised in character, with dried apricot, orange marmalade, dark chocolate and old oak. The palate is silky and elegant rather than muscular; honey and sherried fruit lead, fig and walnut follow, bitter orange and soft spice round things out. At 40% abv the Signature makes no attempt at power, and one senses the blender's deliberate hand keeping everything in its proper place.
The finish is long and honeyed, oak and dried fruit trailing into a faint cocoa note that persists some time after the glass is empty.
Whether Signature justifies its price is a question each drinker must settle with his own wallet. On merit, it is one of the more graceful twenty-five year old blends in general circulation, and it speaks eloquently of the Dewar's method at full stretch. Tommy would, I think, have been pleased to pour it for his most valued agents; he spent a lifetime building a firm that could one day make something this patient.
