First Impressions
Bushmills 21 — from the oldest registered whiskey distillery licence in the world, granted in 1608 in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. The distillery has operated on the same site for over 400 years. Each bottle of the 21 Year Old is individually numbered due to limited production.
The Triple Maturation
Triple distilled in copper pot stills, then matured for nineteen years in a combination of Oloroso sherry butts and bourbon barrels, before a final two-year finish in Madeira casks. Jim Murray scored it 95.5 and named it Irish Single Malt of the Year multiple times. Whisky Advocate gave it 96 and named it Best Irish Single Malt 2013.
Tasting
Bergamot and dark chocolate nose with the Madeira influence immediately captivating. Rich palate of ripe melon, papaya, and dried fruit with spicy aromatic maltiness and an almost cheese-like salinity. Thick, chewy texture. The finish is long and raisiny with the Madeira cask leaving extraordinary depth.
The Verdict
Bushmills 21 earns a 9 — one of the finest Irish single malts available, and the Madeira cask finish is the defining stroke of genius. At £156, it's serious money, but this is a whiskey that justifies every penny. Four hundred years of Irish distilling tradition, expressed in its most refined form.