The 25 Year Old is the elder statesman of the Arran range and, by the calendar, a direct witness to the distillery's founding. Isle of Arran Distillers began production at Lochranza in 1995 under Harold Currie, formerly of Chivas Brothers, and the earliest casks filled in those first seasons have now reached the quarter century mark in limited quantity.
The bottling is composed of a selection of sherry and bourbon casks chosen by the distillery team, married and bottled at 46% ABV, non chill-filtered and natural in colour. It is a small release, the available stock being what it is, and the price reflects both scarcity and the length of the sleep.
The nose leads with polished oak and candied orange, a sherry note that is old rather than heavy, and the faintest suggestion of the salt that clings to the Lochranza warehouses. The palate is deep and slow: stewed orchard fruits, walnut, dark toffee and a dry spice that keeps the sweetness in check. The finish carries bitter chocolate and tobacco, with a return to dried citrus peel at the last.
It is, in its way, a quiet triumph. A distillery that did not exist within living memory for many drinkers now has a 25 Year Old of real composure to put on the shelf. The pioneers would recognise the island in it.