The Epicurean was added to the Remarkable Regional Malts range in 2016, filling the Lowland gap and completing Douglas Laing's regional series. The label, in keeping with the others, carries a character study — in this case a moustachioed Victorian gentleman in evening dress, an affectionate nod to the Glasgow merchant epicures of the late nineteenth century, when the city's grain and malt trade was at its peak.
Lowland blended malts are a small category by necessity. Only a handful of malt distilleries operate south of the Highland Line at any time, and Auchentoshan, Glenkinchie and the more recent Ailsa Bay are the most likely components — though Douglas Laing has, as ever, been coy about specifics. The vatting is bottled at 46.2% without chill filtration or added colour.
The result is exactly as one would expect from a Lowland blend done properly: light, clean, grassy, with no peat and no heavy sherry, the kind of whisky once reserved for the pre-dinner aperitif. It is gentler and more delicate than the other Remarkable Regional Malts, and has accordingly attracted slightly less fanfare, but it has its admirers among those who prefer their whisky understated.
A modest cask-strength edition has appeared occasionally, and the standard bottling has won the odd medal. The Epicurean will not change anyone's view of Lowland whisky, but it will reassure those who already like the style — and at this price, with this provenance, that is enough. A civilised dram, properly named.
