First Impressions
Kilchoman Loch Gorm — annual sherry cask. José Miguel Martín Oloroso. NCF, 46%.
Tasting
BBQ smoke and fig nose. Honey-roasted nuts and cinnamon palate. Toffee finish. Peat-sherry marriage.
The Verdict
Loch Gorm earns an 8 — benchmark peat-and-sherry marriage at £75. Oloroso works with, not over, the smoke.